Mitsubishi Dlp Rear Projection Posts
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Top Questions and Answers
should i buy a 65" Toshiba DLP rear projection or a mitsubishi 65" regular DLP? im shopping for a new big tv and i found a couple at good prices i think.....so im looking for suggestions the Toshiba is 65" DLP rear projection for $1500 the Mitsubishi is also 65" but is a regular DLP for $1900 theyre both 1080p and most everything else si the same too...basically one is rear projction and one isnt......im just wondering if the extra 400 dollars is worth it for the regular dlp instead of projection...because ive heard about all the problems with the lamps in the projection tvs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated....or if anyone knows where i can get a better deal for a huge newer tv for the price?? Thanks

azshootme replied: "GO WITH THE MITS"

bigG,,, replied: "The Mitsubishi is better quality in my opinion! and your not giving up a thing,Except 400 more bucks! and yes i repair electronics and in general toshiba menu's are harder to navigate, and also like you mention the lamps are a consideration! good luck!"

TV TECH-manĀ® replied: "Well, I'd go for the Mitsubishi Too.... But I don't understand the difference between a rear projection and the Mits REGULAR DLP.... I thought they were BOTH Rear Projection DLP TV sets.... Or are you saying the Toshiba is a CRT Rear projection? God....if it was a CRT Rear Projection unit, I'd jump on THAT ONE just because of it's Reliability, it's 1080 Native Resolution, and it's Longevity AND it's Cheapness over the LIFE of the TV set.... Only ONE FIX needed in the life of a CRT Projo...and that's the Convergence amps... But I'd PREFER it to be a Mitsubishi CRT Projo or Sony, or Hitachi....Toshiba is good but they sometimes need the HYPER board fixed on that brand.... Anyways, go for the Mitsubishi...they have a good track record of very few failures compared to other brands...."

Dave F replied: "Give a try they always have cheap tvs."

Legasy replied: "You can get good deal at Mitsubishi 65" DLP HDTV = $1,588.88 Good luck!"

Where to locate firmware update for Mitsubishi WD-65734 DLP Rear Projection TV? I have a Mitsubishi WD-65734 rear projection set and have been told it's possible to upgrade the firmware via the USB port to correct an HDMI auto sensing issue... anybody know how to locate the firmware? I have a Mitsubishi WD-65734 rear projection set and have been told it's possible to upgrade the firmware via the USB port to correct an HDMI auto sensing issue... anybody know how to locate the firmware? I tried the Mitsubishi website under support but could only locate spec sheets and details. No files to download to other details. (http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/support.html)

TV guy replied: "Go to the Mitsubishi web site Under support Find your TV model Check for downloads"

Mitsubishi 62 inch Rear Projection DLP Television Model # WD-62525? got the tv hooked up and turned it on, we got a big green screen. non of the buttons will work all it does is show a green screen

TV Tech 1 replied: "This model is equipped with a keyboard lock feature. To unlock the keyboard press and hold the "menu" button on the front panel for 10 seconds. As for the green screen, once you KNOW it's unlocked, check the menu and see if it actually appears. Normal color? Green Color? We need MORE info....what boxes are connected to the TV set, and to what inputs on the TV. If you set the TV to channel 3, what do you see? ALL green? Or normal black and white snow? Or Green Snow? If you cannot get the TV unlocked, or if it's ALL GREEN then you have a failed DM module and it will need to be sent to Mitsubishi for reprogramming after the EEProm gets replaced....that's ONE possibility, and the other is the engine, and another is Video processing, and another is you don't have all the COMPONENT video connections properly seated at both ends. But a Mitsubishi Authorized servicer will know what to do if they come to your home and see the problem."

Do Lcd Rear Projection TV's And Dlp Lamps Really Go Out After 3 Years Of Use Or Is That Just An Estimated Time i have had a mitsubishi projection tv for 10 years and never had to replace an bulbs.

abhi18033 replied: "its more like 6-8 years i think. my sony lcd rear projection hdtv came with a free replacement bulb which is worth about $150 itself. but ur open box model probably won't come with that."

Grumpy Mac replied: "They did not have single-bulb projection tv's 10 years ago. You have a rear-projector CRT unit. This unit has 3 large picture tubes which can last 10-15 years and is thicker and deeper. The early LCD and all DLP televisions use a single projector bulb which has a lifespan of about 3,000 hours (roughly 3 years of average TV watching). The advantages is that this design is cheap and simple using mature technology. The bulbs are pricey because you do not just replace the bulb - there is a small metal rack that holds the bulb in a precise alignment for the optics. I just had to replace mine and the timer inside the TV that counts hours of use said I was around 3,600 hours."

Ellis N replied: "Mitsubishi, as far as I'm concerned make the best DLP T.V. 10 years is a long time for the bulbs to last. Try not to move your T.V as that alone can cause the bulbs to go out. $150 for the bulbs if you know how to change them..."

Power conditioner for DLP TV...what do I need? Just purchased a Mitsubishi DLP Rear Projection TV (Model Number: 65833-65). Do I really need anything other than a quality surge protector? I have been told that I need a Power Conditioner that will produce a Pure Filtered Sine Wave, and in one instance, they have also recommended a UPS system. So, I am now wondering if I can get away with something that has AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation). This seems like overkill to me, but, I would like to protect the investment. BTW, I am running all Video and Audio thru an Onkyo 875. Thanks for any help provided. 10 points for the best answer.

mrwilliams30075 replied: "A surge protector will probably suffice for you. However, a good power conditioner might be a bit better. With a power conditioner the outlets are labeled specifically for video, audio, amplifier equipment, etc. It will "clean" the power supply and get rid of anything that you might see as "noise" on your TV (video outlet) or hear through your speakers (audio) with circuitry dedicated to the type of component plugged in. The amplifier outlets run on a delay so there is no "thump" when you turn your stuff on. There are also different outlets that are switched and those that aren't. The point is, yes they are good and your entire system will probably benefit in more ways than having a clean power supply. Not to mention, some companies guarantee your equipment plugged in up to $1, 000,000 if lightning strikes or something. That peace of mind is worth a lot! I have had great experience with Monster Power and have heard good things about Panamax. You should be able to find a decent one for a few hundred dollars."

42 (aka the answer to all) replied: "There are specific applications that will determine what you need. DLPs are very susceptible to sudden loss of power so a UPS would allow you to safely shut it down. A power conditioner is always a good idea, especially one that backs up with a connected equipment warranty. Some may balk at monster cables but monster power is by far the best you get besides a pro set up $$. The one below is a good choice for a UPS. It also filters the power but not a AVR that will regulate frequency, that aspect of regulation is only needed in high end systems where marginal performance boosts are regaled. The one below will protect your investment but is not overkill."

aplianceboy replied: "they have some really great items at audiogon.com (Shunyata Hydra) is a great unit forget about monster there products do not compare"

He who must hold the remote replied: "First - was it perhaps a commission sales man telling you that you NEED a power Conditioner and a UPS system? Be suspicious of these sources - they are trying to sell you something. Ask if you can borrow a "loaner" power conditioner. Bring it home and watch the TV for a while w/o the conditioner. Shut it down and plug the TV into the conditioner and fire it up. Do you notice any difference? People in the suburbs tend to see little difference with a conditioner. Their AC power tends to be decent. People in a city or near industrial areas DO see a difference because of the heavy loads by their neighbors. If you dont see a difference, return the conditioner."

DLP TV, Front or rear projection? Is there a better type? I'm looking to buy a DLP tv. I've narrowed it down to two models from My local electronics store. First is a 60 inch mitsubishi, second is a 50 inch Samsung. The 60 inch is a rear projection, while the 50 inch is a front projection. Other than size and price, That's the big difference. And I'm not sure what way to go. Naturally, I'm thinking the 60 inch only because of the size, but the 50 inch would fit in the room better, since it has to go up a staircase with a sharp turn. Then, of course the 50 inch is about $300.00 cheaper. So is there a better version of the DLP style TV? Front, or Rear Projection? P.S. I do specifically want a DLP TV, Not an LCD or Plasma. (personal preference)

TV Tech 1 replied: "You ARE a VERY SMART GUY.... DLP is the most reliable TYPE of TV out there... Now, let's make it a BETTER choice of TV for you..... You got stairs...you want RELIABLE AND PORTABLE... Here's the BEST choice for you right now with your situation... NO LAMP REPLACEMENT...NO COLOR WHEEL...that is what always needed service on DLP TV sets ! And they're GONE on this DLP ! I've only had TWO of these that had noisy power supplys and they were replaced IN WARRANTY ! (I guess some get noisy after being trucked from the factory ) Here is some model info.... ~~q70726f63657373696e6774696d653a3e313930302d30312d3031~~cabcat0100000%23%230%23%23wv~~cabcat0101000%23%230%23%236e~~cabcat0101002%23%230%23%23k~~nf397%7C%7C53616d73756e67&list=y&nrp=15&sc=TVVideoSP&sp=%2Bbrand+skuid&usc=abcat0100000 I'd go for the 50 incher, due to the staircase you have....but it'll be SO LIGHT for two to carry up the stairs !! It's light enough for one to carry, but you need arms about 45 inches long to do that..."

1080p Mitsubishi TV . . . Keep or return??? Ok, so I wasn't necessarily in the market for a new tv, but I am a gadget geek and always want the latest and greatest. I was at Circuit City today and saw the Mitsubishi WD-Y65 65" 1080P DLP tv for $2200. I have paid close attention to tv prices and to me that was dirt cheap. So I bought it. I am supposed to pick it up tomorrow and I am wondering if I spent my money wisely. I have a Mitsubishi 55" rear projection 1080i tv now. It works perfectly fine. I was considering putting that in my front room. Anyway, do you think it is worth $2200 to go from 1080i to 1080p? I have hd service through my cable company, a dvd player and an xbox 360 which I learned can't go to 1080p on the new tv because it doesn't accept 1080p through component or vga. Whew. . . Long question !!! So anyway, I can just get my money back on the tv before I pick it up if it isn't worth it. . . . What do you think ????

Joe C replied: "Actually, the Xbox 360 DOES do 1080p. I recently bought the HD-DVD player for the xbox 360 also. I bought the VGA cables and n ow the Xbox 360 ios 1080p, the HD DVDs are 1080p and it upscales regular DVDs with the VGA cables! Personally, I agree with you, $2200 for that TV was a steal, I would keep it. Keep in mind, there is already 1080p programming out there, and more to come. For TV/Satellite however, you won't find 1080p programming to take advantage of with your TV. I could be wrong but I am almost sure there is no 1080p programming yet due to not knowing how to compress the signal efficiently enough. I know when I had Voo0m satellite, there was talk of a new Mpeg4 compression that was supposed to be the savior, but I don't know where that is at now. Bottom line, that TV will be much better for your future equipment and not such a huge advantage immediately- but a great buy nonetheless."

melissa l replied: "They will probably charge you a restocking fee but yes they should let you return it."

buddhaboy replied: "there is not a whole lot of things out for the 1080p. Unless you want to watch movies on blu-ray then keep it. If me, I can't justify just buying an equipment just because it was a good buy. Nothing is for sure on what format high def is going on dvds. It is a gamble on purchasing blu-ray or hd-dvd. Wait until one format is the consumers choice, by that time prices should go down. The price is good for the dlp but eventually you will have to purchase new lamps. If you watch a lot of tv then the sooner you will have to replace it. Prices should continue going down on plasma and lcd. By the time more 1080p programmings, hd formats, and compatible components comes out that tv can be purchased for $1500 or less. You never know but if you check back next month the price might be $1999 for the superbowl sale."

Matt P replied: "Return it."

I need help which would you buy? and why? Mitsubishi WD62525 -62" 720p Rear Projection DLP 4 years old $250 WD62526 -62" 720p Rear Projection LCD 4 years old $400(has new bulb) Panasonic - 61 inch Panasonic 1080p 1 yr old $600 Which is the best value and why? DLP or LCD? Does 1080 matter that much? Thanks for any advice! Panisonic is a 61" DLP - 1080p PT-61DLX76

jf replied: "Mitsubishi is the last company still making DLPs, so I guess if you're going to get a DLP, getting one of theirs is the way to go. A DLP is said to be one of the most durable formats ever made. It was often joked that if you bought a DLP it would be the last TV you ever owned. The joke was derived from the expectation that the TV wouldn't stop producing a quality image until it physically fell apart. The main caveat though is that its a dying technology and that the bulbs have limited life spans (1-4 years typically). And they can be expensive to replace ($250 and up). So how long you expecting to hold onto this TV? Remember to factor in those costs then. Panasonic is a Plasma, not an LCD. At least I'm not familiar with any LCD they made that was 61" within the past year. $600 is a sweet deal for a 1 year old 61" Plasma. That's the best manufacturer in Plasma right now and its a very large size. Though I'd kind of question why someone is selling it so soon and for so little. That's my only red flag there. It might be nothing, but I'm a bit curious what's up. DLP and Plasma have near equal image quality on the whole. The Plasma is likely a bit better because its a newer TV and Panasonic has made some sweet strides as of late. I like the Plasma option more because its a thinner profile TV and its from a top tier brand (one of the strongest reliability records out there right now actually). 1080p vs 720p is said to matter as you break 40", but more so 50". As you're breaking 60" here, most consumer and guru HDTV guides would likely suggest to you that it would matter. That being said, you should look up some optimal viewing distances and see. If you're sitting back too far, the 1080p might not come into play. Look for like the Lechner distances. I think about 8-10 feet viewing distance and 1080p will still matter. As you approach 12 feet+ though, 720p might actually hold up okay."

hoejyland replied: "I'd go with the panasonic. Rear projection is a dying technology. Its off angle viewing is poor, as well as bulbs need to be replaced as often as every 2 years. As far as 1080p....unless you are watching blu-ray then no it doesn't matter. As of now, no networks broadcast in 1080p so you'll be golden there no matter which you choose. If you like sports you are definitely going to want to consider the plasma as the motion doesn't blur. Hope this helps"

Is DLP screen burn-in possible? I recently purchased a Mitsubishi 60 inch DLP TV. The salesman said it wasn't as prone to burn-in as the old rear-projection style TV. Is this true?

Bonesrules replied: "Yes, DlPs Tv are less likely to get a burned in screen, however if your tv on too long and paused at the same picture it will burn in."

jeh_92116 replied: "DLPs are not subject to burn-in. DLPs are based on little tiny mirrors that "wobble" back and forth. If they're moving all the time, as they usually are in TV use, there's no way for them to get "burned in." Plasma can get burned in - in fact this is one of its biggest drawbacks. CRTs can get burned in too. LCDs are subject to something called "image retention," but it isn't permanent. It can be cured in a few hours of displaying something else. DLPs used to have something similar, called "hinge memory," but it's gotten much better in the most recent chips. It's much more of an issue in data displays where you tend to get a lot of "full off" conditions. Like LCD's "image retention," if it does happen, it goes away after just a few hours of displaying something else. An all-gray screen will do fine."

Xenos replied: "It is 100% true. There is no way for a DLP TV to get burn in. This is because light is reflected of millions of tiny mirrors at differnent angles to get the exact colour in greyscale. Then the light passes through a colour wheel and is projected onto the screen (almost like in the movie theatres). The screen CANNOT get burn-in if the image is projected onto the screen. Same reason why movie theatres NEVER get burn-in. Once you understand how a DLP TV works, you will understand why it is not prone to burn-in. More detailed imformation (and a video) can be found at which refers to how a DLP TV operates."

how do i find my HDMI input setting on my Mitsub T.V. menu? I have a rear projection mitsubishi H.D. tv with hdmi hook up on the back. The t.v. is about three years old but not a DLP. On my functions menu it shows an icon of an antanna, a dvd, cable, and game. None of these work when i hooked an HDMI cable to it from my PS3.

bmwr606 replied: "read the manual"

Chris B replied: "3 years old with HDMI? Are you sure it's not a USB port? If it's HDMI, then your remote should have a "device" button on it to switch to the appropriate input. Remotes and TVs do evolve over time though, so it's possible it's labeled something different on your remote. Also, some TVs have a "skip" function which you might have programmed to skip over the HDMI input when you first got the TV since you were not using it. Dig around in the TV menus to see if yours has something like that. If you've lost the user manual then check the manufacturer's web site as they may have it available for download. Hope that helps, -CB"

Biker Rob replied: "The problem is not the TV but the PS3. you have to hook up the PS3 with a composite cable (RCA) and change the settings for the video and audio output to HDMI. DO NOT set it to 1080p use 702p unless you are sure the TV has 1080p. After you change the output on the PS3 hook it up through the HDMI and toggle through your TV inputs until you see it. Also the inputs are called cable, game etc. by default on your TV but you should be able to rename them."

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